Ad Hoc at Home
by Thomas Keller
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Book Reviews of Ad Hoc at Home
Book Review: Make sure you use the right salt.
Summary: 4 Stars
[I've updated this review after getting comments on the original review from one of the authors.]
Having cooked (and learned a tremendous amount) out of "Under Pressure" and "Bouchon" (having spent 5 hours caramelizing onions for TK's onion soup I now claim that I engage in "extreme cooking"), I was very happy when "Ad Hoc at Home" arrived. On the surface, it looks great.
Last night I made the caramelized scallop recipe which is simply brined scallops sauted in clarified butter over high heat. This recipe ruined $20 work of scallops because its brine is 10 cups of water (5 lbs) and 2 cups of salts (1 lb) for a 17% brine. This brine way oversalted the scallops even though they were only in it for the recommended 10 minutes (actually a little less since the scallops were smaller than the U7s called for in the recipe). I thought something was amiss when making the brine but was only sure after the fact.
The problem was that I used Morton's Kosher Salt instead of Diamond Crystal Kosher Salt, which is way less dense. Page 52 of this book talks about the different salts, but who reads page 52 before trying an interesting looking recipe? So be warned, use Diamond Crystal for recipes in this book.
I love the book's recommendation to temper poultry before roasting it. I've been doing this for years to avoid uneven roasting, and am very happy a cookbook is willing to discuss this technique in these days of overblown microbe fears.
Book Review: Excellent book!
Summary: 5 Stars
This is my favorite cookbook. I spent a weekend reading it from cover to cover before cooking any recipes from the book. I have since made about 30 recipes from this book. A favorite is the herb-crusted rack of lamb. His brownies are also to die for. I like the way Thomas Keller teaches his readers subtle cooking techniques as well as sharing his philosophy on cooking, eating, and on life in general. Since cooking from his books, I have become a more organized and disciplined cook and have focused more on mastery. I can't always find some of the gourmet ingredients that I need for recipes and I have to say that I really appreciated the information on what brands he uses and even suggestions of where you can find them. I have purchased over a dozen copies of this book for gifts and everyone I have given it to (all serious foodies) loves it as well. French Laundry is very fussy and some of the recipes are over the top for weekend cooks. I would describe Bouchon as being between French Laundry and Ad Hoc in terms of required cooking knowledge. The only complaint I have about the book is one that other readers have pointed out and that is the size. It's beautiful, but it's a bit difficult to hold. In fact, when I read it all the way through, I had to read it in bed because it was too big for me to read in a chair for a long time. Having said that, the size of the book is part of its beauty as well, so I can't decide if I would really want it changed!Book Review: A book for the BIG family only
Summary: 3 Stars
I love 'family style' cooking, but I don't have a big family around all the time, nor do I run a restaurant. Instead, I usually cook for a party of two.
And here's where my critizism with this book comes in: Practically all recipes are given for at least 6 eaters, sometimes 6-8 or even 8-10 servings.
While reading this book, I found it extremely tiresome, that, in order to put the book to practical use, I would need to break down every single recipe. For example, brining chicken is an excellent idea to start with, but a recipe for about two gallons of brine, enough for 4-5 birds? That's nowhere near my reality. Plus, the brine doesn't keep very well, so you're supposed to use it in a timely manner. Brined chicken for two weeks in a row? I don't think so.
There's another aspect that bothered me, maybe this book is just 'too American' for me. There's nothing wrong with a bit of 'human interest', but for my taste, he goes way over the line here. For example, a recipe that is introduced as 'the last meal my father had before he died and I'm so glad I could cook it for him' doesn't really stimulate my appetite. With all due respect to the author's personal feelings, but if I want stories like that, I'll buy a biography, not a cookbook.
I have no doubt that this is a good book for some, but I eventually decided to return it.
Book Review: Best cookbook on my shelf
Summary: 5 Stars
With online recipes and great newspaper food sections, I had considered cookbooks obsolete and had vowed never to buy another one. I needed to spend an extra five dollars to get free shipping; somehow I ended up spending $30 on ad hoc at home. I had recently read an article about Thomas Keller's relationship to his father in the NYTimes, and was curious about the cookbook. Once purchased, I vowed to make a commitment to the book and actually read it and use it several times a week.
The results? Incredible. My wife and kids cannot believe the level of cuisine coming out of our kitchen. I love the cookbook. The recipes are stunning, the cooking tips the best I've read in a cookbook, and the pictures are lovely and actually very helpful. Still more, there seems to be an undercurrent regarding the centrality of cooking and food in our communal lives. It starts with the first, lovely "lightbulb moment" and recipe in the book and extends to the recipes that require sub-recipes that come from traditional cuisines. Who would have thought that cooking tomatoes, onions, garlic and olive oil together for five hours could make such a deep, rich ingredient for meat and other dishes? Mr. Keller seems to be a teacher, not just of the nuts and bolts of creating a great dish, but of why we bother to do it at all.
Book Review: A new Family Favorite
Summary: 5 Stars
I received Ad Hoc at Home as a gift with my new set of All-Clad pans. I was pleasantly surprised as I went through as I wanted to try each and every recipe. I can't say this about all the cookbooks I own. I really enjoy the way Chef Keller explains certain techniques and really acts as a guide for the home cook. There was not an assumption that I would know how to do things a certain way;blanching celery for example. Yet, I did not feel spoken down to either which sometimes is the way some chefs come across in their books.
I enjoyed Keller's message about sharing food with friends and family. It doesn't need to be fancy- just good. I am so excited to have a new book to turn to for family Sunday dinners. While many recipes would not be possible for me on a weeknight- I can see me getting good use out of the ideas on the weekends or during time off from work. The Chicken Potpie recipe was so amazing- my family has swore off the store bought variety for life!
Another thing of note are the recipes for condiments and canned chutneys and jellies found in the back of the book. As a home canner, I was excited to find some new ideas for items I could make up ahead of time when things are in season.