Breakfast, Lunch, Tea: The Many Little Meals of Rose Bakery
by Rose Carrarini
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Book Summary Information
Author: Rose CarrariniEdition: Hardcover
Audio: English (Unknown); English (Original Language); English (Published)
Published: 2006-11-15
ISBN: 0714844659
Number of pages: 192
Publisher: Phaidon Press
Book Reviews of Breakfast, Lunch, Tea: The Many Little Meals of Rose Bakery
Book Review: If I were in Paris today, I'd be there for lunch...
Summary: 5 Stars
If I were in Paris now, you could find me having lunch at Rose Bakery, 46 rue des Martyrs.
It's my favorite restaurant in Paris --- and I've never been there.
But I have Rose Carrarini's book, and it conveys so much of the spirit of her establishment that I know I'd love to be at Rose Bakery --- not just for her food, but for the ambiance, the people who work there, the regular customers and, above all, the idea that drives it.
Home cooking.
An unreal idea, huh? But there it is. "My intention was always to dissolve the distinction between home and restaurant cooking," Rose says. And so she works from a Bible with just three commandments: "simple" and "natural" and "homemade."
The restaurant --- a one-time storage room for fruit carts --- is just as elemental. Concrete-and-metal tables on a bare concrete floor. White walls. No display window. Open kitchen. Staff in white aprons. And a single splash of color: a large abstract painting on a back wall.
Rose's Bakery is also a shop. The packaging is plain. There's not even a web site.
And yet, I'm told, this total anomaly --- an English bakery in the capital of France --- is beloved by foodies and cool kids alike. "Le meilleur brunch de France," says Le Figaro.
What makes it great?
Rose tells a story that says a lot. It's about a meal she had at the Hyakumizon restaurant in Tokyo. She was served a dish of carrots. "No sauce," she recalls. "No garnish...The taste was intense and exquisite, and was mostly of the carrot itself. Possibly blanched, cooked, cooked again in a dashi and flashed under a grill, this was one of the most humble yet delicious dishes we have ever had the privilege of tasting. Whatever the technique the chef had used, I was convinced that you don't need any fuss or flourish, as it's the flavour of the dish that counts."
She learned that lesson well. Rose Bakery now produces 90 per cent of the food and products it sells. And the proprietors are sticklers for freshness --- today's leftovers will never be tomorrow's special. As her husband and partner, Jean-Charles, explains, "At nine-thirty we start cooking until midday, when we open. We don't have any storage fridges, so everything has to be eaten that day. We normally sell everything, which often means that we sell out by 2.30."
This oversized hard cover cookbook is equally fresh. There are full-page photographs of the bakery's butchers and apple suppliers and even a regular customer, who looks to be one very happy nine-year-old schoolgirl. To flip through the book is, I suspect, very much like a visit to the Bakery.
The recipes? Traditional. And that's the point. Rose is big on breakfast --- "my favorite meal" --- so she starts with recipes for fruit salad, rhubarb and orange, scones, muesli and pancakes (classic or with ricotta). Lunch starts with soup (green bean and almond, spiced chickpea and lemon, celeriac and porcini), moves through salads and tarts and risotto, and closes with just a few animal-based entrees, like braised lamb shanks with cumin, eggplant and chickpeas. And then it's on to cakes and pastries, the stuff of afternoon tea.
There's nothing here that's esoteric. The hardest part of duplicating these recipes is in the shopping --- finding organic produce that can stand up to simple preparation.
Summary of Breakfast, Lunch, Tea: The Many Little Meals of Rose Bakery
The Rose Bakery is a small Anglo-French restaurant, shop and bakery, tucked away in a street near the Gare du Nord in Paris. This book introduces this hidden gem and the philosophy and style of its creator Rose Carrarini to a wider audience for the first time. Beautifully illustrated with more than 100 specially commissioned photographs, and featuring 100 of Rose's most popular recipes, this book is as much a treat for the eye as for the taste buds. The unique style and atmosphere of Rose Bakery, as well as the people who prepare, buy and eat the food that is made here, are captured in Toby Glanville's evocative photographs. The images show everything from the first preparations for breakfast and gearing up for the lunchtime rush to the final customers lingering over a piece of cake and a last cup of coffee in the late afternoon. Rose Carrarini became a pastry chef because neither she nor the customers of Villandry, the 'epicerie fine' she set up in London with her husband Jean-Charles in 1988, could find the pastries and desserts they wanted anywhere else. Now based in Paris, Rose has been serving simple, fresh and natural food that blurs the boundaries between home and restaurant cooking at Rose Bakery since 2002. Over 90 per cent of the products sold in the shop and served in the cafe are made on the premises with the best ingredients: Rose uses as much organic and locally sourced produce as possible, and has reduced the sugar content in her cake recipes to make them healthier without sacrificing flavour, texture or pleasure. Rose Carrarini's approach to food and hospitality has proved to be very popular with the locals, who crowd into the shop on weekdays, choosing from the lunchtime display of salads, vegetable tarts and pastries displayed on the shop's counter, and line up on weekend mornings for a full English breakfast or a plate of pancakes. This book will make the flavours and style of Rose Bakery accessible for people outside Paris, too.Baking Books
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