Breakfast, Lunch, Tea: The Many Little Meals of Rose Bakery

Breakfast, Lunch, Tea: The Many Little Meals of Rose Bakery
by Rose Carrarini

Breakfast, Lunch, Tea: The Many Little Meals of Rose Bakery
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Book Summary Information

Author: Rose Carrarini
Edition: Hardcover
Audio: English (Original Language); English (Unknown); English (Published)
Published: 2006-11-15
ISBN: 0714844659
Number of pages: 192
Publisher: Phaidon Press

Book Reviews of Breakfast, Lunch, Tea: The Many Little Meals of Rose Bakery

Book Review: If I were in Paris today, I'd be there for lunch...
Summary: 5 Stars

If I were in Paris now, you could find me having lunch at Rose Bakery, 46 rue des Martyrs.

It's my favorite restaurant in Paris --- and I've never been there.

But I have Rose Carrarini's book, and it conveys so much of the spirit of her establishment that I know I'd love to be at Rose Bakery --- not just for her food, but for the ambiance, the people who work there, the regular customers and, above all, the idea that drives it.

Home cooking.

An unreal idea, huh? But there it is. "My intention was always to dissolve the distinction between home and restaurant cooking," Rose says. And so she works from a Bible with just three commandments: "simple" and "natural" and "homemade."

The restaurant --- a one-time storage room for fruit carts --- is just as elemental. Concrete-and-metal tables on a bare concrete floor. White walls. No display window. Open kitchen. Staff in white aprons. And a single splash of color: a large abstract painting on a back wall.

Rose's Bakery is also a shop. The packaging is plain. There's not even a web site.

And yet, I'm told, this total anomaly --- an English bakery in the capital of France --- is beloved by foodies and cool kids alike. "Le meilleur brunch de France," says Le Figaro.

What makes it great?

Rose tells a story that says a lot. It's about a meal she had at the Hyakumizon restaurant in Tokyo. She was served a dish of carrots. "No sauce," she recalls. "No garnish...The taste was intense and exquisite, and was mostly of the carrot itself. Possibly blanched, cooked, cooked again in a dashi and flashed under a grill, this was one of the most humble yet delicious dishes we have ever had the privilege of tasting. Whatever the technique the chef had used, I was convinced that you don't need any fuss or flourish, as it's the flavour of the dish that counts."

She learned that lesson well. Rose Bakery now produces 90 per cent of the food and products it sells. And the proprietors are sticklers for freshness --- today's leftovers will never be tomorrow's special. As her husband and partner, Jean-Charles, explains, "At nine-thirty we start cooking until midday, when we open. We don't have any storage fridges, so everything has to be eaten that day. We normally sell everything, which often means that we sell out by 2.30."

This oversized hard cover cookbook is equally fresh. There are full-page photographs of the bakery's butchers and apple suppliers and even a regular customer, who looks to be one very happy nine-year-old schoolgirl. To flip through the book is, I suspect, very much like a visit to the Bakery.

The recipes? Traditional. And that's the point. Rose is big on breakfast --- "my favorite meal" --- so she starts with recipes for fruit salad, rhubarb and orange, scones, muesli and pancakes (classic or with ricotta). Lunch starts with soup (green bean and almond, spiced chickpea and lemon, celeriac and porcini), moves through salads and tarts and risotto, and closes with just a few animal-based entrees, like braised lamb shanks with cumin, eggplant and chickpeas. And then it's on to cakes and pastries, the stuff of afternoon tea.

There's nothing here that's esoteric. The hardest part of duplicating these recipes is in the shopping --- finding organic produce that can stand up to simple preparation.

Summary of Breakfast, Lunch, Tea: The Many Little Meals of Rose Bakery

La Vie En ROSE -- New cookbook takes recipes from one of Paris's most fashionable restaurants and places it in the eager hands of home cooks.

It might come as a surprise to some that one of the most trendy and successful bakeries in Paris is run by an Englishwoman. But it shouldn't. With the triumphant success of Rose Bakery in Paris's 9th Arrondissement, Rose Carrarini quickly earned a reputation for creating simple, yet uncompromising foods that focus on the importance of using fresh, flavorful ingredients and a loving attention to detail. Like the Rose Bakery itself, Carrarini's new cookbook BREAKFAST, LUNCH, TEA: The Many Little Meals of Rose Bakery dissolves the distinctions between restaurant cooking and home cooking, and holds firm to the belief that flavor need not be complicated.

Carrarini has always believed that simplicity is the key ingredient to great food and a great life, and it was this philosophy that led her to open London's influential Villandry in 1988 and Rose Bakery, the Anglo-French restaurant in 2002. Tucked away on a side street near the Gare du Nord, Parisians line up daily to sample the lunchtime display of salads, tarts, cakes, and light fare at the charming b?ite. At Rose Bakery, it is evident that Love of food has become a universal language.

It is this universal language that makes BREAKFAST, LUNCH, TEA pure delight with recipes from 100 of Rose Bakery's most popular dishes, from breakfast staples such as Crispy Granola to afternoon treats, including Sticky Toffee Pudding and Carrot Cake, as well as soups, risottos and other perfect dishes for a light lunch.

In BREAKFAST, LUNCH, TEA simplicity is indeed the golden rule, from the recipes and techniques to the structure of the cookbook itself. The book begins with a chapter on techniques and ingredients, with thoughts and advice on such matters as peeling, oven temperatures, and moisture, and descriptions and tips for such ingredients as olive oil, butter, vanilla, and marigold. Then Carrarini moves straight into Breakfast, providing dozens of simple and delicious recipes, including Fresh Mixed Fruit Salad, Lime Grapefruit and Ginger Juice, Honey Granola, Traditional Porridge, Perfect Scrambled Eggs, Ricotta Pancakes, and Blueberry Scones. Lunch begins with numerous soups, salads, pastries, and risottos, and then provides main courses that range from Asparagus and Almond Salad with Chicken to Braised Lamb Shank with Cumin, Aubergine and Chickpeas.

BREAKFAST, LUNCH, TEA saves the best for last. The Tea chapter features more than fifty of the tarts, cakes, cookies, tray bakes, and puddings that have made Rose Bakery world famous and locally adored, including Lemon Blueberry Tart, Fresh Ginger Cake, Pine Nut and Almond Biscuits, Hazelnut Brownies, Apple and Blackberry Crumble, and Apricot Sorbet, just to name a few.

More than 100 specially commissioned photographs from acclaimed photographer Toby Glanville make BREAKFAST, LUNCH, TEA a visually rich cookbook, allowing each recipe to seduce the senses from the very first read. These pictures are populated with the food, people, and shop atmosphere that make Rose Bakery so special.

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