Cheese Primer
by Steven Jenkins
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Book Summary Information
Author: Steven JenkinsEdition: Paperback
Audio: English (Unknown); English (Original Language); English (Published)
Published: 1996-11-01
ISBN: 0894807625
Number of pages: 576
Publisher: Workman Publishing Company
Book Reviews of Cheese Primer
Book Review: More of an epicure's guide than an introduction.
Summary: 4 Stars
`Cheese Primer' by a leading American `fromagerie' (sic), Steven Jenkins is a typical Workman Publishing slick treatment of a subject in a relatively inexpensive trade paperback format which is great to look at and promises lots of useful information on it's subject. This, like most of Workman's similar titles largely delivers on its promise, but it does not quite live up to its moniker as a `Primer'. The primary reason for this is that it does live up to the promise that the author is `America's most opinionated authority'.
There is no question that Monsieur Jenkins knows his stuff. He is especially well versed on artisinal cheeses from around the world, especially in France, Italy, Spain, and the United States. In fact, one of the most salutary discoveries in this book is that the good old U. S. of A is developing a really decent artisinal cheese industry, California cows notwithstanding.
The main problem with the book is that it did not answer in a good `Cheese for Dummies' way, some of the primary questions I had about cheese. For example, there was no spiffy table giving the primary characteristics of the world's major cheeses. This is expecially important as France alone, with its more than 400 named types of cheeses have dozens which fall into the same general type. This is expecially important when we find that our A-list cheeses may not be available, but a differently named cheese with very similar properties is available and at a substantially reduced price. The author very accurately states that it is simply not possible to pidgeon-hole all cheeses into particular types, as there is so much overlap. This is why we need a tabular presentation of cheese properties. What, for example makes Camembert, Brie, and Roquefort similar and what makes them different from one another.
One of my greatest affirmations from this book is the fact that while France enjoys the reputation of being THE great cheese making country of the world, Italy actually imports a lot more by weight than does France. This is really not too surprising as most of France's great cheeses are soft and do not travel that well, while the stars of Italian cheesemaking are the hard grana-like cheeses, lead by the regal Parmisano-Reggiano and the princely Pecarino Romano. Italian cheeses are one of the four legs on which it's great cuisine sits, along with its wine, charcuterie, and pasta, with a special mention due to its bread making, which is exported more in concept than in substance.
This book is great as a second book on cheese, serving as a reference on the salient features of our most important cheeses. It's recommendations on serving cheese are just a bit too fussy for everyday use. I noticed this especially when I saw Jenkins recommend for a cheese platter a cheese which was very difficult to obtain anywhere in the country except in the very largest cities with major cheese shops.
I was also surprised that the book gives no list of sources, even if they are only good for the locals. Where is the plug for the Texas outfit which makes mozzarella or my favorite DePaolo cheese shop in New York's Little Italy. Where is the plug for Murray's Cheese, also in New York City. We only get mentions of places where Mr. Jenkins has worked.
If you love cheese and you can get a copy of this book for under $10, this is a good buy. Otherwise, keep looking.
Summary of Cheese Primer
Steven Jenkins is our foremost cheese authority--in the words of The New York Times, "a Broadway impresario whose hit is food." Now, after years of importing cheeses, scouring the cheese-producing areas of the world, and setting up cheese counters at gourmet food shops, he's decided to write it all down. Full of passion, knowledge, and an expert's considered opinions the cheese primer tells you everything you need to know about the hundreds of cheeses that have, in the last few years, become available in this country. Region-by-region, he covers all the major cheeses from France, Italy, Switzerland--the top tier of cheese-producing countries--plus the best of Britain, Ireland, Spain, the United States, Austria, Germany, and other countries. Along the way he tells how to pick out a healthy Pont l'Eveque; why to reconsider the noble Fontina for more than just cooking; how to avoid those factory-made chevres; why to seek out the sublime Vacherin Mont d'Or; and how to start exploring--Bleu de Bresse, Cabrales, Crottin de Chavignol, and so on. A complete primer, it includes information on the best ways to store and serve cheese, including which wines to serve alongside them; how to orchestrate a proper cheese course; and the unimportable cheeses to look up when abroad.If you want a fascinating food book, say Cheese Primer. For 20 years, Steve Jenkins has lead the way in upgrading the quality of cheese sold at fine food stores in the U.S. Finally, in this volume, he shares his encyclopedic knowledge. Jenkins tells all about cheesemaking at the commercial as well as the artistic level. Generously punctuated with maps and photos, the book includes all kinds of historical and other relevant information. Jenkins seems to describe every kind of cheese made in the U.S. and Europe, including when to eat them, how and with what. His passion and blunt opinions make it easy to travel the 548 pages of this book if you have even the smallest interest in cheese. The guide to pronunciation is particularly helpful.
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