Concrete Countertops: Design, Form, and Finishes for the New Kitchen and Bath
by Eric Olsen, Fu-Tung Cheng

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Book Summary Information

• ISBN13: 9781561584840
• Condition: New
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Book Reviews of Concrete Countertops: Design, Form, and Finishes for the New Kitchen and Bath

Book Review: Best book that I know of on the subject
Summary: 5 Stars

A few comments:

First, contrary to the author's comments, an electric sander is completely inadequate for vibrating the concrete. Buy or rent a professional vibrator unless you want pinholes in your work. Hand "massaging" and rapping the sides with a hammer will not completely eliminate the problem either. I tried all three methods and still ended up with a moderate amount of honeycombing. As the author mentions, this is easily patched, and it even adds character to the work if you use a slightly different color, but be aware: properly vibrating the mix is not nearly as simple as it seems to be in the book. My comments pertain to a mix that has proper slump (i.e., not too wet).

Second, the author makes a reference to plastic cabinet legs being inadequate to support a concrete countertop. That may be accurate for the flimsy off-the-shelf cabinets, but the plastic cabinet legs that are quickly becoming a standard ... are load-rated at 650 pounds EACH. This is more than enough to support a think concrete countertop (probably even better than a shimmed 2x4 base).

Next, I would have to say that I was slightly annoyed at the lack of "recipes" needed to produce some of the stunning work shown in the book's illustrations. Visiting the author's website was also annoying since there it doesn't help much (unless you want to buy one of his pricey kits.) One of the reasons I went with concrete was because it is cheap. We ended up using Quickrete5000 and a Quickcrete dye (Buff). We threw in a couple of geodes for effect. It turned out quite nice, and works well with our slate floor. I understand and respect that the author is trying to run a business, but I have to reconcile that with my being on a budget.

Again, I'd like to remind the reader that I would not have built my countertop if I had not found this book, but the method for building a form split at the sink seemed a bit silly. They used a single form that then had to be flipped all at once (very heavy, dangerous, and a potential cause for damage to the countertop). Because of the weight, I chose to split my countertop (diagonally at the sink, as in the book), but instead I built two forms. Much safer and easier to flip over.

Finally, it is a matter of taste, but as soon as you are happy with the texture of your countertop, stop grinding/polishing! As he states in the book, the pads are expensive.

One more thing, In the future I'd like to try using something other than melamine for the forms. The slight texture of the melamine is perfectly reproduced in the concrete. I noticed in a few of the angled spots that used paint over bare wood, the concrete was perfectly smooth (i.e., no grinding required). I suspect that using perfectly smooth plywood with a smooth coat of polyurethane would produce a better countertop out of the box. Since I don't really want to expose any aggregate (accomplished by grinding), this might work better for me, although I won't know until I try. All in all, I'd have to say it is a wonderful book, but be prepared to experiment and to think for yourself.

Summary of Concrete Countertops: Design, Form, and Finishes for the New Kitchen and Bath

Design & Construction Books

• Subjects > Crafts, Hobbies & Home > How-to & Home Improvements > Home Design > Design & Construction
• Remodeling & Renovation
• Do-It-Yourself