Go Fish: Fresh Ideas for American Seafood
by Andrew Friedman, Laurent Tourondel
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Book Summary Information
Author: Andrew Friedman, Laurent TourondelEdition: Hardcover
Audio: English (Unknown); English (Original Language); English (Published)
Published: 2004-10-08
ISBN: 0471445940
Number of pages: 328
Publisher: Wiley
Book Reviews of Go Fish: Fresh Ideas for American Seafood
Book Review: Great 2nd book on Fish cookery. Buy It!
Summary: 5 Stars
`go FISH' by Laurent Tourondel and Andrew Friedman is one of those books which exudes promise from its pores, as it were. It has the very promising subtitle, `Fresh Ideas for American Seafood', the talented co-author who has assisted several other major New York chefs with their books, and complementary back cover blurbs from six of the heaviest of heavy culinary hitters. I will be only a little skeptical about the fact that all but Thomas Keller are French chefs with restaurants in New York. This `coincidence' is offset by the fact that one of the French five is Eric Ripert, who is a first rate fish specialist in his own right. So, if Eric is willing to pass some of his cachet off to our man Laurent, then I will take him at his word.
The book explains itself as a collection of recipes for only fish found in American markets (not necessarily in American waters) and as a collection of recipes written to be prepared at home rather than at a restaurant. That is, although Monsieur Tourondel is a seafood restaurant chef, these are dishes he prepares at home and not in his restaurants. So far, all of this sounds really great.
Tourondel continues to please me when he says that fish is really easy to cook. This coincides with everything I have read and experienced about fish cookery so far. In fact, the main talent you need with fish is to avoid overdoing it with strong flavors so as to avoid loosing the identity of the fish under a blanket of strong flavors.
Tourondel pays up on this promise by offering many dishes of raw (sushi, sashimi, tartare, carpaccio) acid-cooked (ceviche) recipes which are practically all about good knife skills and involve virtually no cooking by heat.
The authors offer us a great service by providing a chapter of fifty-eight (58) profiles of fish in American markets, almost all of which are also from American waters. Understandably, many will only be available in certain parts of the country. In eastern Pennsylvania, I have never seen stone crab, frog's legs, spiny lobster, rock shrimp, sea urchin, snails, Dungeness crab, or peekytoe crab at my fishmonger or megamart. The only seafood I miss from their list is abalone and terrapin, which are both in `James Beard's New Fish Cookery'. I will certainly not hold that against this book, as I would rather have two good books that do not overlap than two good books which succeed in the same areas.
Another introductory section gives expert advice on how to select and care for seafood purchases. This advice covers everything I have heard or read before, but with not much I have not heard or read before.
Thus, the authors seem to have succeeded with three important big ideas, all of which add up to a promising book for American home cooks. The next issue is whether their recipes are good and they have a good supply of little ideas to back up their agenda.
For starters, I believe their recipes are written in an especially good format. My usual preference is for numbered steps that make it easy to see where you are at any given point in the preparation. The authors go one better and give titles to each step. This is an excellent measure for making the recipe easy to follow, but it is also an excellent step to show, upon reading the recipes, how much work is involved in actual cooking and how much is involved in prepping the ingredients and the garnishes. In almost all other regards, the layout of the recipe text is first class. The headnotes are at the beginning, the notes about ingredients are highlighted with large type names, and almost all recipes are for the same number of servings.
An excellent last step to each procedure is instructions on how to serve the dish. Each recipe, even the appetizers, also include a wine selection which goes far beyond the usual. In fact, it goes so far that while the novice can use it, its full value may only be evident to a wine aficionado. These last two features make this book doubly valuable as a resource for dishes with which to entertain.
I am very happy to find the names of all the recipes at the beginning of each chapter. One can see at a glance, for example, that the book includes recipes for the traditional Manhattan and New England clam chowders, Pesto Minestrone, Mediterranean Fish Soup, crab bisque, and cream of cauliflower with salt cod. The editors should have taken just one more step and put the page numbers on the recipe titles.
With fish described as being so simple to cook, one may be surprised at the long ingredient lists and not trivial cooking instructions. The fact is that except for soups and plating instructions for things such as salads, much of the time and materials in many of the recipes goes for the dressing, sauce, or garnish. I looked at a few of the scallop recipes and found that the cooking in most of them was the same. The differences lay in the saucing and dressing. In spite of the somewhat long ingredient lists, I found nothing really expensive or out of the ordinary, as long as you are reasonably knowledgeable about world cuisines. Recipes originate from around the world, with a heavy concentration from France, Italy, America, the Mediterranean, Japan, and Southeast Asia (formerly French Indo-China). Many recipes even used water in lieu of chicken or fish stock.
Scallops bring up an important point. These recipes were probably written and tested with the very highest quality of scallops in hand. In landlocked Pennsylvania, all the sea scallops I ever see look more like scallop pieces laden with that stuff they add to keep them looking white.
An excellent second fish book, after acquiring Beard's book or Mark Bittman's `Fish'.
Summary of Go Fish: Fresh Ideas for American Seafood
"I don't cook or fish. This wonderful cookbook makes me regret both those decisions."- Alan Richman
"With the publication of Go Fish, we can all learn [Laurent Tourondel's] secrets and gain inspiration from his recipes. This book is essential reading."
- Robert Mondavi
From swordfish to littleneck clams, exotic sea urchin to succulent monkfish, America's waters are home to a stunningly diverse array of fish and shellfish that are ideal for home cooking. And, as celebrated chef Laurent Tourondel of New York's BLT Steak reveals in Go Fish, creating elegant, mouthwatering seafood at home can be marvelously easy???and faster than you might think.
An acknowledged fish fanatic, Tourondel offers a beautiful and easy-to-follow guide to the fine art of preparing restaurant-quality seafood at home. From Salt-Crusted Salmon to Spicy Moroccan Swordfish, Go Fish shows how the mild but nuanced flavors of fish, married with a chef???s palette of herbs and spices, can yield a wide range of dinner-table masterpieces.
Go Fish delivers more than 100 seafood recipes infused with flavor, style, and simplicity. Melt-in-your-mouth appetizers, hearty chowders, perfect pastas and risottos, and aromatic main courses are matched with sides and desserts that complete the seafood-centered feast. Whether presenting vibrant adaptations of time-honored classics like New England Clam Chowder or bold signature dishes like Salmon Steak with Ginger Chili Glaze, Tourondel reveals how sophisticated seafood cuisine can be prepared with accessible ingredients and uncomplicated techniques.
Along with each main course, Tourondel provides a wine recommendation that perfectly accents the flavors and textures of the meal.
Complete with an overview of more than fifty varieties of American fish and shellfish, plus helpful shopping and preparation tips, Go Fish gives home cooks all the tools they need to create memorable meals for family and friends.
Featuring a foreword by the legendary Daniel Boulud and two dozen tantalizing photographs, Go Fish is a stylish yet down-to-earth blueprint for exquisite seafood cookery at home. With a bare minimum of hard-to-find ingredients, complex stocks, or painstaking boning chores, these contemporary recipes will become an integral part of your own culinary repertoire.
New York City Cookbooks from Wiley
New York is one of the world's great food cities; it is also one of the most culinarily diverse. Check out these great cookbooks from some of the stars of the New York food scene, as they make their great recipes accessible to the home cook.
| A contemporary spin on classic Italian cuisine for home cooks from New York?s acclaimed Fiamma restaurant. |
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| Terrance Brennan, the chef/owner of two acclaimed restaurants, Picholine and Artisanal, brings to life his passion for simple yet flavorful cuisine in this wonderful cookbook. |
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