Near a Thousand Tables : A History of Food

Near a Thousand Tables : A History of Food
by Felipe Fernandez-Armesto

Near a Thousand Tables : A History of Food
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Book Summary Information

Author: Felipe Fernandez-Armesto
Edition: Paperback
Audio: English (Unknown); English (Original Language); English (Published)
Published: 2003-09-02
ISBN: 0743227409
Number of pages: 272
Publisher: Free Press

Book Reviews of Near a Thousand Tables : A History of Food

Book Review: painfully boring
Summary: 2 Stars

This book is painfully boring, which is quite an accomplishment, considering how exciting food can be. The author describes an oyster experience in the beginning that parallels Bourdain's opening for Kitchen Confidential, but after that, this book becomes bloodless. Where is the love? Many feel it at every meal. I'm not sure this is true for the author.

One gets the sense that food is not really important to this book other than as a commodity. Sheesh. He seems to miss the point... unless we should be viewing cannibalism as an important alternative to the menu at Chanterelle (the subject of eating human flesh gets 12 of 220+ pages). That's about 5% of the book's bulk, but it is indicative of the roundabout way Fernandez-Armesto takes to talk about something that impacts us, hopefully, three times a day.

Most remarkable to me is that the author is most animated when dissing vegetarianism. I consider "bacon-wrapped" to be the sweetest and best modifier in the English language; still, his dismissive approach to vegetarianism makes his arguments extremely suspect for me.

I would hate to be eating tapas across the table from Fernandez-Armesto. He could make pickled boquerones boring.

Summary of Near a Thousand Tables : A History of Food

In Near a Thousand Tables, acclaimed food historian Felipe Fernández-Armesto tells the fascinating story of food as cultural as well as culinary history -- a window on the history of mankind.

In this "appetizingly provocative" (Los Angeles Times) book, he guides readers through the eight great revolutions in the world history of food: the origins of cooking, which set humankind on a course apart from other species; the ritualization of eating, which brought magic and meaning into people's relationship with what they ate; the inception of herding and the invention of agriculture, perhaps the two greatest revolutions of all; the rise of inequality, which led to the development of haute cuisine; the long-range trade in food which, practically alone, broke down cultural barriers; the ecological exchanges, which revolutionized the global distribution of plants and livestock; and, finally, the industrialization and globalization of mass-produced food.

From prehistoric snail "herding" to Roman banquets to Big Macs to genetically modified tomatoes, Near a Thousand Tables is a full-course meal of extraordinary narrative, brilliant insight, and fascinating explorations that will satisfy the hungriest of readers.


How best to grasp food's place in history? Historian Felipe Fernández-Armesto's Near a Thousand Tables places its beginnings in cooking, a social act that forges culture (and is perhaps responsible for it), then pursues it as a series of "revolutions"--from the inception of cooking, herding, and agriculture to food industrialization and, finally, modern globalization. Informatively dense yet spry and aphoristic, the book explores food as rite and magic (it "binds those who believe, brands those who don't"); the domestication of animals (snails are the world's oldest "cattle"); farming and food's use as an index of rank ("greatness goes with greatness of girth"--or at least it did); food's role in trade and cultural exchange (Tex-Mex cooking as a form of colonial miscegenation); and as a force in and for industrialization (canning as the cooking of the Industrial Revolution). In the end, we are brought to "the loneliness of the fast food eater" and the "desocializing" effect of microwave cooking and other forms of modern food manipulation that alienate us from the communal act that "made" culture. "Food gives pleasure," Fernández-Armesto writes, and "can change the eater for better or worse." He concludes, "the role of the next revolution will be to subvert the last."

This is a fascinating book that shows us ourselves: like the cannibal, who eats his enemy to appropriate his power, we believe in food's transformative effect, which through devotion to vegetarianism and other special diets will make us "better." It paints a picture both sweeping and precise. --Arthur Boehm

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