 |
The America's Test Kitchen Family Cookbook, Heavy-Duty Revised Edition
Book Summary InformationBrand: PBS Editor: Cook's Illustrated Magazine Edition: Ring-bound Audio: English (Unknown); English (Original Language); English (Published) Published: 2006-09 ISBN: 193361501X Number of pages: 736 Publisher: America's Test Kitchen
Book Reviews of The America's Test Kitchen Family Cookbook, Heavy-Duty Revised EditionBook Review: The basics, the whole basics, and nothing but the basics Summary: 4 Stars
This is an interesting review to write, primarily because I never really got what this book was for. The flagship Best Recipe series is a culinary marvel on a scale simply not possible from the hand of one author -- a wall of self-contained, in-depth, thoroughly tested recipes, described in rather exhaustive fashion. If you can't find it in one of those books, they haven't written about it -- yet. And the America's Test Kitchen TV tie-in books go beyond the basics to cover all kinds of interesting territory in the kitchen in much the same fashion. Between the two series, I own twelve of their books, as well as two (really three -- long story) written by founder Christopher Kimball solo and one from former Cooks editor Pam Anderson. But this one? Its purpose escaped me for some time, until it was bought for me as a present. And I get it now.
The simple fact is that not everyone who goes looking for a cookbook is a kitchen geek, and even those that are don't always want to read two densely-typeset pages of backstory before getting to the meat of the recipe. To top it off, The Best Recipe series alone is twelve volumes and counting -- at $35 a book, and especially given Cooks Illustrated's prolific production rate, that represents an investment of hundreds of dollars. You can get a copy of Escoffier, in French, and still pay for shipping and handling direct from Flammarion and still pay far less than you would for a complete set of The Best Recipe, to say nothing of the TV cookbooks, the hint guides, the two magazines, and the many specialty guides they've written over the years. That, essentially, is what this book is all about: hundreds of dollars and cook-years of kitchen wisdom distilled down into a quick, thorough, and lavishly illustrated kitchen reference.
Most of what's in here is things that have been done before, though many of the recipes are simplified in one way or another (e.g. revisions to standardize on one particular type of AP flour). Other things help as well, though -- technique illustrations are far more common than in the other books, while the binder design (improved over the first edition) makes a cookbook holder unnecessary. Tables are available that simplify researching a recipe (especially compared with the equivalent search in the Best Recipe series, an experience not unlike studying for a college final with three or more books at hand). All of this comes together to provide a simple interface to a colossal body of culinary work, and does it quite well. Throw in Cooks' trademark product comparisons, and you've got a viable alternative to many of the other big-name books like Betty Crocker and the Better Homes and Gardens Red Plaid.
It's not necessarily a must-have though -- if you've got another solid kitchen reference that you rely on (I've used Joy of Cooking '97 for years), this is something that will be nice to have on the shelf but very likely might be redundant for day-to-day use. It is, however, an excellent gift for a beginning cook (may I recommend Alton Brown's I'm Just Here for the Food: Version 2.0 as a nice complement to this book) or for anyone who never seems to quite master the art of the kitchen.
Summary of The America's Test Kitchen Family Cookbook, Heavy-Duty Revised EditionRepackaged to be easier to use and expanded to include a whole new chapter of healthy, light recipes, this revised edition of one of last fall's bestselling cookbooks remains the one and only basic cookbook you will ever need. Beautiful step-by-step photos illuminate every conceivable technique from chopping shallots and skinning salmon to cutting up a chicken and tying a roast. In fact, just about anything you want to do in the kitchen is explained in these pages in America's most popular test kitchen's approachable, no-nonsense voice. These recipes will keep you busy (and your friends and family happy) for years to come, since we've included hundreds of easy weeknight dishes (like Skillet Lasagna and One-Pot Chicken and Rice), company-worthy dinners (like Beef Burgundy, Roast Leg of Lamb, and Fresh Fruit Trifle), equipment ratings, shoppings tips, and more. Over time, twin enterprises Cook's Illustrated magazine and America's Test Kitchen have published many books dedicated to providing exhaustively tested recipes--"best" versions of traditional dishes plus definitive takes on kitchen equipment and ingredients. Some series readers have complained of endlessly recycled or rejiggered recipes; others take each book at face value, finding the formulas and cooking insights good and helpful. America's Test Kitchen Family Cookbook, which calls itself a cookbook, cooking school, and kitchen reference in one, offers over 1,200 approachable recipes for a very wide range of dishes--from "weekday" fare like Creamy Rice Casserole, Cheesy Nachos with Spicy Beef, and Skillet Lasagna, to dressier recipes, including Pan-Seared Lamb Chops with Red Wine Rosemary Sauce, Roasted Trout Stuffed with Bacon and Spinach, and Chocolate Marshmallow Mousse. There are "specialty" chapters devoted to sandwiches, drinks, and slow cooker and pressure cooker dishes; a grilling section is a tutorial in itself. Unorthodox, "better-way" approaches abound. For example, a fried chicken formula instructs the cook to wet the bird's dry coating slightly before it's applied for an extra-crunchy crust. Predictably, side bars feature equipment and ingredient evaluations, on bottled salsa, for example; "good food/bad food" photographs show readers what to aim for when producing fare like holiday cookies; and there are tips, charts, and "Cooking 101" sidebars galore. Step-by-step photos offer more direction still. Though the majority of recipes are sound and yield tempting results, readers poring through the book will note gaffes and curiosities. The recipe for poached eggs, for example, offers the option of extra cooking for "firm yolks" (hard-boiled poached eggs, anyone?) and hamburgers receive an indentation before cooking to avoid "puffy" domed burgers, a novel problem that could, in any case, be solved by proper shaping. The addition of sugar to some savory dishes--for example, a pan sauce for steak--is misguided. Readers should also know that the book, which comes in loose-leaf form, requires some assembly, and that the pages themselves are quite thin, making them vulnerable to spills and tearing in daily kitchen use. These things said, the book delivers solid, family-friendly dishes with enough fully orchestrated "how- to" to make even novice cooks feel secure when tackling the basics or more ambitious fare. What's New in the Revised Editon? First out in 2005, America?s Test Kitchen Family Cookbook was praised for its recipe ease, inclusiveness, and wealth of helpful information, but was also criticized for its physical production. A loose-leaf book with its pages included separately, readers found it inconvenient to assemble and its paper impractically thin. The revised edition is printed on heavier stock, and arrives with its pages already on its rings (there are two more now, for sturdiness) with only chapter dividers to insert, a simple task. In addition, new inside front and back covers provide information on emergency substitutions, roasting guidelines, equivalent measures, and more--and a "Light Recipes" chapter has been included. Without defining precisely what "light" means--fewer fats and carbs, or a combo?--the section offers attractive all-course recipes, such as turkey chili, veggie burgers, meat and cheese lasagna, and chocolate bundt cake. Some readers will welcome the "slimming" of familiar dishes while others will find some of the manipulations--using cornstarch to thicken the sauce in fettuccine alfredo or ricotta to add body to a reduced-fat pesto, for example--unappealing. The book, however, remains a valuable kitchen tool--and one with greater convenience and durability than before. --Arthur Boehm Exclusive Recipe Excerpts from The America's Test Kitchen Family Cookbook (Revised Edition) More from America's Test Kitchen
Special Occasions Books
|
 |