The Art of Shaving
by Eric Malka, Myriam Zaoui
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Book Summary Information
Author: Eric Malka, Myriam ZaouiEdition: Hardcover
Audio: English (Unknown); English (Original Language); English (Published)
Published: 2002-05-07
ISBN: 0609609157
Number of pages: 112
Publisher: Clarkson Potter
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Book Reviews of The Art of Shaving
Book Review: Interesting as advertisements go
Summary: 2 Stars
It would not have surprised me if this book was nothing more than a commercial for the products sold at The Art of Shaving shops. Indirectly, that's what it is, with all its emphasis on creams, lotions, gels, soaps, and balms--all sold as the mainstay of the namesake brick and mortar boutiques. Although none of these products are hawked in the book by specific brand. But what did surprise me is the way this book seems to be a commercial for Gillette Mach 3 razors. It's a surprise because the majority of those dedicated to the "art" of wet shaving generally eschew cartridge systems.
I evaluate this book for its textual and photo content. In the early text about the history of barbers, we read "Fortunately, over the years, the two roles [of barber as groomsman and surgeon] have become separated, and barbering has become a serious and respected art." (p. 16) What?! Surgery wasn't serious? The book is full of statements of this kind, so take all the text with a grain of salt.
As another example of lax quality of content in this book, consider the large "Essential Oils Chart" on pp. 32-33. The table is riddled with dots to indicate some sort of relationship between 29 kinds of oil and 18 skin types (I'm not sure what "tired" skin is, or the difference between "dry" skin and "dehydrated."). What the table fails to mention is what the relationships are. To take one data point, there is a dot at the intersection of lavender oil and dry skin. This could indicate that lavender oil causes dry skin, or it should be avoided if you have dry skin, or you should use it if you have dry skin. I think the last is the case, but nothing explicitly says that. The book dedicates two chapters (38 pages) to skin and lotions. And even the chapter on shaving technique is largely dedicated to the same, rather than to the act of shaving. Finally, there is a section titled "The Actual Shave," but that is mostly again about lather; its smaller subsection on "Shaving Strokes" amounts to a couple hundred words.
At 6¾" x 6¾", this really is just a miniature coffee-table book, which would be fine. If the text isn't to be taken seriously, at least we should enjoy the pictures. But here we are disappointed too. All the photos are in black and white. While black and white photography as an art form certainly has its place, this is not it. True color is needed to properly convey the subtle difference in the gleam of polished nickel, chrome, silver, or gold plate. Lotions and oils have distinct hues of their own. The tips of badger hairs should be shown as silver, compared to the brown shades of the rest of the hair. Even the slight colors of creams and lathers are lost in these photos. And if you were hoping to see many pictures of many different razors, don't get your hopes up. Almost all the razor pictures are of the same swivel-head Gillette, whether perched in a stand, or being dragged along a man's face. There are only three small partial photos of double-edge (DE) razors, and a handful of straights.
The presentation of razors in the "Tools" chapter is oddly sequenced in reverse chronological order. Many sections in the book cover elements of shaving history in their historical sequence, highlighting the evolution of shaving, so it would have been much more organic to explain the development of shaving tools and their incremental improvements along the way. The only explanation for abandoning that style here is to sell cartridges. Of course it starts out with all the accolades of swivel-head razors, with plenty of hype for the Mach 3 and Sensor by name. Throughout the book these are the only recommended shaving implements, with all others positively denigrated.
Fixed-head razors in general are described as "uncomfortable," "difficult," and "always lead to nicks or cuts" (pp. 62-63). DE safety razors are described as not safe "when compared to swivel-head cartridges" (p. 64), but adjustable DE razors offer "five blade positions". (Merkurs offer five, but vintage Gillettes offer nine positions.) Then a strange recommendation to "try to get blades made in Solingen, Germany." While the Solingen shout-out might not be an open recommendation of a particular company, it certainly narrrows the field: It just so happens that Merkur is located in Solingen, and Merkur is the only brand of safety razor sold in The Art of Shaving shops. But in fact, you can get good blades made in Egypt, Israel, Japan, the UK, the USA, and many other places. Finally, on to straight razors, for which we're told to take lessons from a professional, and the honing of which should be done by a professional (pp. 66-67). It's a wonder anyone ever learned to shave himself in the several centuries when straights were the only option.
To complete the sales pitch for swivel cartridges, the final chapter is on shaving injuries. Of the three injuries discussed, two are explicitly blamed on not using a swivel-head cartridge razor. Nicks and cuts: "the primary culprits are ... razors that don't swivel. [...] So use a razor that has a swiveling head." (p.108) Razor burn: single blade razors tempt you to "shave over the same area more than once, unnecessarily removing a layer of skin each time." (p. 104) Yet, most wet-shavers claim that multiple blades remove more skin than do multiple passes with a single blade. They experience less razor burn with a DE than with a cartridge. And the third injury (ingrown hairs) is commonly believed by wet-shavers to be caused or exacerbated by multiple blade cartridges that pull the hair and supposedly cut it below the skin. So two of the three injuries might very well be caused by cartridge razors, despite the claims in this book. And the third (nicks) is more a matter of technique and preparation than of the instrument.
Despite the authors' claim that this book is the "result of seven years of professional shaving and skin-care expertise," (p. 9) it would seem that the authors have never used a fixed-head razor of any kind.
In conclusion, this small volume fails to deliver either convincing text or satisfying photography. It's interesting to pick up and peruse, and for that I give it two stars. But if it's successful at all, it's in selling Art of Shaving lotions, Merkur razors, and Gillette swivel-head razors; all coincidentally available at your neighborhood Art of Shaving store. This book should be handed out free at the store as a promotional brochure, not sold for $17 to people looking for unbiased and factual information.
UPDATE: Recently both Gillette and The Art of Shaving chain of shops have been acquired by Proctor and Gamble. The circle is almost complete.
Summary of The Art of Shaving
The average man will shave approximately 20,000 times over the course of his life, spending the equivalent of 139 full days doing it. He will shave off 27 feet of hair, from a total of 30,000 whiskers on his face. And he will probably be doing something wrong. So he?ll suffer nicks and cuts, ingrown hairs, and rashes; his five-o?clock shadow will arrive before lunch, his neck will be irritated and red, and he?ll get razor burn. Instead of reaping the benefits of a daily grooming regimen, he?ll only suffer. Needlessly.The Art of Shaving will solve his problems (as well as the related problems of anybody whose cheek gets burned by his razor stubble). He?ll choose the correct brush and razor and blade; he?ll take more time lathering up properly and less time tending to bloody shirt collars. He?ll feel better and look better. And he?ll adjust his perception of this morning ritual, bringing art and passion to a daily routine.
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