The French Laundry Cookbook
by Thomas Keller
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Book Reviews of The French Laundry Cookbook
Book Review: Precision Cooking Solely For Serious Home Cooks...
Summary: 4 Stars
Physically speaking, "The French Laundry Cookbook" is dense, somewhat cumbersome, and teetering on intimidating--it will surely be the largest cookbook you'll ever own, and the statement is clear; this is not a cookbook for amateurs. On the contrary, this is a dense, meticulously-structured culinary opera aimed at those courageous enough to attempt to recreate 4-star dishes out of the home kitchen. Visually, the cookbook features countless, beautiful, full-page photographs of food so perfectly conceived that it comes off as easy, although once you read through any one recipe, you're sure to realize the difference between fantasy and reality. Keller is quite obviously a food perfectionist, and takes every extra step, every precaution, every effort, to make every component of every dish as flawless as possible. If this sounds like your cup o' tea, then you should order this cookbook with no delay. Granted, some recipes are on the easier side, but that's on the French Laundry spectrum, where easy is still more difficult than what you're probably used to. On the opposite end of the spectrum, this cookbook features recipes that, despite Keller's obvious and applaudable efforts to make his masterworks' a possibility for the at-home chef, are nearly impossible to pull-off, unless you have skill, patience, and around 4 days with nothing else to do.
If you're very serious about cooking and want to take the difficulty level up quite a bit, then consider this cookbook. Every recipe you complete will make you a more well-rounded, knowledgeable cook, and that's the bottom line--this cookbook is like a portable culinary school. Just be aware that unless you go into the cooking process dedicated, patient, and determined, frustration could take over and the dish might not be worth the effort. If done right, some of the dishes in this cookbook, from sight to taste, are simply stunning, and like nothing else out there.
Book Review: Thomas Keller - French Laundry
Summary: 5 Stars
i have not cooked much from keller's books, but i am not going to review them from that perspective; i will assume that the results of his cooking practises are good, and focus more on his methods.
i have noticed that, even in the more acclaimed cookbooks, by the big names, recipes are either very sloppily executed by the chef, or they have left out steps or details from the recipe in the book. this is fine some of the time, because not everything can, or needs to be, included in a cookbook recipe. however, i have found that it is by including certain details that an author helps a reader to actually learn how to cook, and not just to follow recipes. even if the author does not present them as a clear set of general rules, specific examples still allow further cooking principles to be derived, and over time it they get the reader thinking about refining and developing their methods. the examples of good principles can be found in every one of keller's recipes, not so much as general methods from first glance, but as specific examples that point to the general method. then there are the "importance of" sections, where keller makes more of an effort to formalize a certain element he believes is important - case in point is his stellar section on stocks (though for me, Richard Olney's stock instructions in "The French Menu Cookbook" are the best of any in book form). keller seems to take traditional or classical starting points, and refine or elaborate on them according to his philosophy; he seems to do things properly, and does not skimp for time, money, diets, or effort required. other authors who write similarily to keller in this respect are Richard Olney and Paul Bertolli; Jeremiah Towers, Judy Rodgers, and Michel Richards also have good books in this respect.
i would recommend keller for those who enjoy the prospects of refined cooking done through well developed methodology.
Book Review: Precision modern food with deep foundations
Summary: 5 Stars
Thomas Keller brings to food what the modernists such as van der Rohe and Le Corbusier brought to architecture: a disciplined geometry that distills classical elements to their pureset forms. Eggplant is reduced to its essence in a quenelle of Keller's "caviar". The accompanying potato "blini" are as light as air yet provide an intense potato flavor. Gazpacho is refined to a clear perfectly balanced nectar, peas to a verdant spring broth. Keller, like the modernists, is focused on bending ingredients to his will rather than presenting them in their natural form.Whether you prefer Keller's platonic food or more rustic bistro fare, his cookbook is worth studying for the clinic it provides on basic French technique. As with most brilliant artists with a clearly articulated vision, Keller first mastered the basics. Tom Collichio, who was Keller's sous chef at Rakel in New York, presents a more down-to-earth version of much of the same technique in his "Think Like a Chef". I now consult Keller and Collichio on everything from vegetable stock to bordelaise sauce.
Surprisingly, there are many recipes, such as the gazpacho or bordelaise sauce, which are not at all difficult to make, and many others that can be easily simplified. Others start with ingredients like whole lobes of foie gras.
Deborah Jones's photographs are wonderful, ranging from black and white photojournalism in the kitchen through architectural renderings of Keller's food to still lifes of the restaurant and grounds awash in warm California light. The combination of huge format, high quality paper and fine printing make this book ideal for browsing, but difficult to fit in my tiny kitchen.
A worthwhile companion to this cookbook is the third of Michael Ruhlman's book "The Soul of a Chef" devoted to Ruhlman's experience of being introduced to Keller and the French Laundry prior to co-authoring the French Laundry Cookbook.
Book Review: Incredible, but be forewarned...
Summary: 5 Stars
To put it simply, this book is amazing. I'll try to sum it up in a few main points...Design--the design on this book makes it a work of art. The photographs and layout are literally awe-inspiring. A word of caution...the size is very cumbersome and doesn't exactly make for ease in the kitchen.
Text--Very enjoyable text and it is pleasurable reading. Most helpful are pointers on technique and procedure.
Recipes--Most are difficult, a few are pretty easy. Herein lies the caveat/point of caution. To understand this point, one must understand the philosophy of this restaurant/Keller. Food is a work of art and presentation is everything in Keller's mind. With that in mind, be ready to break out the tweezers and forcepts to get this food to appear as it does in the restaurant/book. It can be painstaking and frustratingly over-done.
On the restaurant--It is a very good restaurant and worthy of most of the commendations about it. It is perhaps one of the best dining experiences I've experienced. However, it is becoming, in my humble opinion, slightly over-rated. The wait on reservations has now hit the 3 months+ mark. (From those slightly less demanding, I've heard stories of a 6 month wait.) In other words, if you would like to dine there in April, better make reservations in January at the latest. To be honest, the experience is not THAT fabulous and such a wait is more of a product of hype than of quality. You would be better off going to Terra or Tra Vigne in the same area. It would likely be more enjoyable as well.
Don't get me wrong. This is a fantastic book and it is a fantastic restaurant. It is just not THAT fantastic if you follow me.
But as for the book, purchase it if you understand what you're in for--it will be a valuable addition.
Book Review: Keller's Stunning Cookbook Sets the High Watermark for Culinary Adventurers, Even Passive Ones Like Me
Summary: 5 Stars
I readily admit that I have never attempted any of the elaborate recipes in this touchstone cookbook for the aspiring chef because I am intimidated by the beauty and intricacies of Thomas Keller's culinary concoctions. For those fortunate enough to have experienced an evening at his world-renowned restaurant in Yountville, the book provides a vivid reminder of what visual and edible splendors abound in that place. What I enjoy about this coffee table book is that it is more than the sum of its 150 recipes but a genuinely insightful look at Keller's burgeoning artistry and impressive career. What results is a singular perspective on food borne out of the abiding respect he has for those who taught him his well-explained techniques. There is no getting around the expansive time consumption behind the preparation of these dishes, but that's Keller's point - that such an investment is priceless for the resulting masterpieces.
There are over 200 color photographs to attest to that supposition. When you see dishes like Pan-Roasted Maine Jumbo Scallops with Morel Mushrooms and Asparagus Puree or Parmigiano-Reggiano Custards with Romaine Lettuce, Anchovy Dressing, and Parmesan Crisps (that's Keller-speak for Caesar salad), you know this is someone who has taken the time and patience to perfect his creations. For a brief moment of nirvana, I was able to have one of his nine-course Chef's Tasting Menus (which is now priced at a startling $210) a few years ago, and I still remember the joy of the unbridled experience. What amazes me is how Keller gets away with such luxuriant pricing by his sheer exuberance and willingness to experiment, traits that come across quite adroitly in this wondrous tome.