The Places In Between
by Rory Stewart
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Book Reviews of The Places In Between
Book Review: Totally Changed My Mindset!
Summary: 4 Stars
Okay, so the book has been adequately reviewed by some 150 readers. I doubt that I can add much to that score. On the other hand, this book has forced a recalibration of my mindset relative to the challenges the U.S. and other western nations have vis-à-vis this corner of the world.
Toward the end of the book I was struck by the power of Rory's first-rate diplomatic skills within a, personally, high risk encounter with the Taliban. Without ruining the story for anyone who has not read, or finished the book, I submit there is something we can all learn from Rory's handling of a truly life-threatening encounter. If ever someone was operating without a net, it was he. So, what am I trying to say? Not sure, except Mr. Stewart demonstrated an ability to respectfully, but assertively confront, and eventually confound his otherwise unyielding fundamentalist interlocutors. These men were judge & jury and, had Rory got it wrong, I'd be writing about him in the past tense.
Clearly, the lesson from the book is: these are societies (however "developed" they may be) that have almost amorphous rules of law that are a function of yesterday rather than a guide for future inter-tribal dependence. Rory seems to do his greatest work by pointing out the true disparity between Western and Afghan conventional wisdom... We want to create democracy; they need clean water. We want to create gender equality; they need even the most rudimentary medical care. We want to create an Afghan military/police force; they need to develop a level of trust, across tribal boundaries to ever make this possible. How to do this? Perhaps, it's a matter of helping the Afghan people develop an infrastructure with what we might consider the barest of necessities... Perhaps we stop trying to change a tapestry of ancient cultures with war and alien democracy, and embrace the ideas that the Afghans, themselves, must see the value in their past cultures; the value of preserving what they have; and the value of lifting their war-weary children above the fundamentalist mistrust, violence, intolerance, and extreme tribalism.
Book Review: An incredible journey...
Summary: 5 Stars
I wanted to read more about Afghanistan after reading a number of books about this country, so I picked up Rory Stewart's The Places In Between. This is an incredible tale about his journey, walking across Afghanistan from Herat to Kabul in 2002.
Afghanistan was not Stewart's first journey on foot. The amazing part of his trek is not that he traveled between these two cities, but that he did it through the mountains during the winter. In this respect, he was traveling in the footsteps of the Emperor Babur of Mughal India, from whose journals he liberally quotes. Stewart wanted to stay away from "roads. Journalists, aid workers and tourists." The sights that he saw were not much different from what Babur saw in the 1500s. The other reason Stewart chose to walk through Afghanistan is that he considered it the "missing section of my walk, the place in between the deserts and the Himalayas, between Persian, Hellenic, and Hindu culture, between Islam and Buddhism, between mystical and militant Islam. I wanted to see where these cultures merged into one another and touched the global world."
During Stewart's journey, he depended on the generosity of strangers to provide him with food and shelter. Most of them lived a very poor existence with homes made of mud bricks, with dirt floors and no electricity or running water. Many times, food was simply tea and bread. But throughout, Stewart heard their fascinating stories. Many of them fought the Russians, the Taliban, or each other. He was also able to discover how so many civilizations converged in this beautiful but desolate country along what were the Spice Road and the Silk Road.
Stewart took a drawing pad with him, and The Places In Between is filled with interesting drawings of the places he visited, the people he met and some of the objects he saw. It is also filled with photographs of his travels as well as maps of each leg of his journey. Many people thought that Rory Stewart was bold, brave, and/or downright crazy to make this trip. But for whatever reason, his readers are richer for his efforts.
Book Review: Incredible Determination, and a Bit Too Much Bravery!
Summary: 4 Stars
Stewart decides to WALK across Asia, presumably to get a good feel for other nations, and Afghanistan is the last segment of his trip. Despite the Taliban having been overthrown only two months prior, Stewart undertakes the journey - on foot, even after being warned innumerable times about deep snow, extreme cold (eg. -40 degrees F.) and wind, millions of land mines and weapons remaining from 24 years of constant war, wolves (locals recounted recent stories of attacks on humans), and general lawlessness. Stewart insists on completing the ENTIRE journey on foot.
During his trek, Stewart runs into numerous close calls due to the number of tribes and vendettas involved (one native stated such a trip would be impossible for an Afghan), suspicion of anyone European/American (at the end, Stewart is mistaken for a native, and warned about British and American soldiers in Kabul), dysentery and diarrhea (locals lack even outhouses, and use rocks to clean after relieving themselves), poor food (dry bread and sugar water or tea were the most common meals), general illiteracy (one group was killed because locals could not read the "Aid" designation on their jeep), thin air at 14,000 foot mountain passes, etc. Despite the high level of suspicion, Stewart's command of at least two local languages, his habit of getting to know the names of leaders in upcoming villages and obtain letters of recommendation where possible, the assistance of locals (eg. food, places to sleep, and guides), and Stewart's overall calmness in stressful situations gets him through and provides Stewart with insight into Afghanistan that few, if any other non-natives attain - especially those assigned U.N. or U.S. positions to aid the country.
Bottom Line: Stewart's courage and determination are without question, though he never makes clear his reason for the trek. The "bad news" (actually a tragedy) is that Stewart lacked adequate photographic equipment - only a black & white film camera, instead of today's handy pocket digital photo cameras, and much of his limited film was wasted by a curious Afghan.
Book Review: Not a Smooth Read
Summary: 4 Stars
Very difficult to read because it is padded with quoted passages in smaller print and footnotes. The quotes from Babur's travels are relevant to the adventure, but I wish Mr. Stewart had found a less annoying way to include them.
While we never learn why the author made this trip--other than it was the final leg of his journey--I think he was about as well prepared, educated, and experienced as a westerner could be in that part of the world. Still, it was a ridiculously dangerous thing to do and I fear that there are idiots out there who know nothing other than how to walk who will attempt the same trip.
Other reviewers complain that the author did not spend enough time describing the views as he walked. I disagree. How much is there to say about snowy, cold mountainous winter landscapes? I think he covered the geographic descriptions pretty well.
I felt, as did the author, that the looting of the priceless antiquities is a terrible shame. He was very restrained in his retelling of what he witnessed, but I could feel his horror.
For me the best part of the story was Rory Stewart's adoption of the dog, Babur. Until the dog appeared Mr. Stewart seemed sort of robotic. His affection and his attempts to care for the dog warmed my heart and added some humanity to the book. I don't know how a huge dog like that who walked miles a day in the cold could survive on scraps of bread and water. I so hoped that Babur would make it back to Scotland so he could live a life of well fed leisure for his remaining days.
It was interesting to me that women were almost invisible on this trip. The few he did meet had never been more than a few miles outside their remote villages.
Even though this book is very frustrating to read I think I will remember it long after the other books I read during the last few months. For that and its uniqueness it deserves four stars. I do want to advise Mr. Stewart to not give-up his day job to become an artist.
Book Review: THANKS FOR SHARING YOUR JOURNEY MR STEWART
Summary: 5 Stars
"Someone in Kabul told me a crazy Scotsman walked from Herat to Kabul right after the fall of the Taliban"
Thanks for the book. For it was indeed a journey of great spirit and determination. Mr. Stewart was well prepared for this trip with vitamins and various medications he knew would be necessary to successfully complete this challenge; ibuprofen, antibiotics, just name it and he had it; sharing with the villagers he met on his way when they saw what he had and begged him.
Well written, well told. I was truly impressed with how hospitable the people of Afghanistan were; those whom he encountered and offered him rest and meals and at times water to wash with, at their various humble abodes where he was invited to stay for the night. Even through they understood little English, Mr. Stewart was able to communicate to them by speaking Persian. I love reading about anything in the Eastern and Asian side of the world, so I was with him all the way. I felt like I was alongside him as he climbed those steep slopes and when he walked on the flat valleys. I drank tea with Mr. Stewart from glass cups, ate stale bread with him and soup, and enjoyed the rest at the end of the day, sleeping on a carpet or just on the floor.
The attention given to him was enormous as he persevered onwards. My main concern was just before he got to Kabul when he had to travel through the deep powdery snow which was known to cause frostbite, making it necessary to amputate limbs for some in the past. I held my breath as he and his dog companion Babur made it out of the snow covered mountains, and alas into another bright day. God bless you Rory Stewart. I will soon be starting Prince of the Marshes, which sounds like another winner; but to those of you out there looking for a Christmas gift or other, buy The Places In Between first, for you won't be disappointed. An excellent gift, especially for travellers!!!
Reviewed by Heather Marshall Negahdar (SUGAR-CANE 25/11/06)